Outboard motor cranks but wont start

Outboard motor cranks but wont start

Sounds like you've addressed some of the usual suspects. Poor ground is a typical culprit but it appears as though you've checked that out. If you have a multimeter check the voltage at the hot terminal on the solenoid. Should be a strong 13V. Then check it again when cranking. I don't recall offhand what the spec should be --. Last edited by Philscbx; 06-04-2012 at 11:59 AM. First I would make sure that the plunger and plunger well are not gummed up or corroded. Then I would lubricate the pivot points on the engagement arm. Check the spring too to make sure it isn't broken (very unlikely) or binding on something. Simply replacing parts at $200 a pop shouldn't be the first option IMHO. Older batteries may show 12-13volts, but only be 50% capacity. Better battery chargers show the capacity. It's all I use. Severe voltage drop is the outcome the second relay engages if it falls below 10v. I thought I would lubricate the solenoid as was suggested, should I just remove the component and then???? Thanks again for the help. Last edited by wheelerd; 06-03-2012 at 10:35 AM. One other thing, because it's easy to access the solenoid/starter, you can jump the battery and ignition terminals with a screwdriver to "hotwire" the starter. (I used to have to do this on a 64' Impala I once had.) If this kicks the starter each time, perhaps the issue is with the ignition wiring. The only problem with doing this is that it can actually weld the screwdriver to the terminals if you're not careful and can screw up the threads so you can't get the nuts off. But it can be a lifesaver when all you get is that unwelcomed "click.". Simple Inspection will cost roughly 3 beers, parts/maybe $35, that's what rebuild means, but necessary pulling it apart/reassemble is basic service and required annually to remove it and lube bushings and clean out the grindings that naturally occur. I can live with that but not sure that I 'fixed' something with the ground wire or the frequent cranking that last two days freed something up in the Sel/starter. I thought I would lubricate the solenoid as was suggested, should I just remove the component and then???? Thanks again for the help. The Starter simply needs to be rebuilt complete with relay/solenoid. 2005 X2, Viper Red, MCX, OJ TZ-X5 prop, PPass, rear 750 sacs, KBS, IBS, Bennett Wake Plate. Perhaps have a bench test done on the starter, especially if it's original. What else -- hmm -- maybe a load test on your battery to see if it's putting out the rated cranking amperage? One other issue - battery cables - any weakness - corrosion feeding up the copper from crimp zone - Problems from using too small a gauge & distance contribute voltage drop. But I'm sure it will get sorted out- Embarrassment on the water vs the driveway is usually dramatic - possibly danger. The starter/solenoid is only 5 years old according to the OP. Unless it has been submersed in water or otherwise abused I wouldn't be replacing BOTH the starter and solenoid until I had followed up first on some of the suggestions above. Or, as I suggested earlier, at least have the unit bench tested. Simply replacing parts at $200 a pop shouldn't be the first option IMHO. a spoon-shaped eating utensil with short tines at the tip. I have a '92 240sc with the 454. When I turn the key to start, I get a click from the solenoid but the starter does not engage. After several turns of the key (maybe a dozen sometimes more) the starter will engage. Once it starts cranking, the starter usually stays engaged until the engine starts. Warm or cold, I normally have the same experience to start the engine. This week I removed the leads from the battery and ignition switch from the solenoid to look for corrosion. Found none but scrubbed them up anyway. I have checked the ground connection on the engine block and it is clean and tight (I didn't remove it). Starter/solenoid was replaced about 5 seasons ago, so I figured this to be a problem with the connection at the solenoid. Since that doesn't seem to be the issue I am not sure what to try next. Any suggestions?? Fifty starters go through 50 different conditions. A 454 is a severe heavy load for any starter. I've rebuilt hundreds from the smallest to some too heavy to budge off the bench. Low voltage is the primary problem- is a relay/solenoids worst conditions for internal damage to its contacts. All times are GMT -4. The time now is 03:21 PM. Last edited by waterlogged882; 09-17-2015 at 08:26 PM. A rebuilt outright are not that much - keep the old one - rebuild it at leisure for a spare.